Dirty South Wine

A Dirty South Dinner Party in Healdsburg

cellarrat's Alan Baker displaying pure moustache power!

I'm a little slow throwing my first dinner party here in Healdsburg.  Last night a crazy group of folks descended on Chez Dirty for a night of wine, grilled lamb, and more wine.

Cast: The Beer Wench, Shana Ray, Serena, Alan, Pedro, and the newest Sonoma county resident, Eric Hwang.

Some fun bottles without a stinker in the mix.

The Bottles:

Whites:

2005 Domaine Henri Gouges Pinot Blanc "Bourgogne"

A wildly bright and rocky refresher.  Open opening, I thought this bottle was "off"- it has some true funk.  But after being open for 10min, it was singing.  Thanks to the folks from Terroir for picking this out for me.

2008 La Cana Albarino

Green apple and lime in a glass, with decent rockiness and a little salt.  Straight ahead juice.  Dug it.

2007 LIOCO Chardonnay Demuth Vineyard

Another metamorphis wine-  Tropical flavors up front, lush, and huge.  This settled down to rock, smoke, toast, and citrus.  Deep juice.  I like it.

2006 Copain Roussanne James Berry Vineyard

Yo.  Deep. Almost heavy.  Diggidy.  Let this baby open up and warm up.  I was afraid it was going to be shutdown being an 06, but it was crazy delicious.

2008 Esterlina Riesling Cole Ranch

One of the few West Coast Riesling I have had that hits you with mineral and rock first, fruit second.  This is their "off-dry" which I prefer to their bone-dry Riesling.  I think by off-dry, they are really just saying that they have one even drier-  This is a pretty dry Riesling.  Wild acidity, crisp, tart, citrus, stone, and steel.

Reds:  None taken.  Dug the 13.5% on the Teira Zin, 05 Radio-Coteau "La Neblina" super rich and textured, 07 Spot-On Syrah ripe fruit and black pepper, 05 Unti Reserve Syrah- YO!

Slideshow:

A Snack at Cyrus: Matsutake Mushrooms and Burgundy

Compressed Peach with Yuzu, Yoghurt, Daikon, and Micro-Arugula

Matsutake Mushrooms, Dashi, and 07 Auxey Duresses

I have a warped framework when I consider Cyrus one of my local "watering holes".

Cyrus is a Michelin two-star joint, about 5 blocks from my home.  It is good, very good, and it can be stoopid good.

Because I'd rather not mortgage the house back in ATL, I've only ever sat up at the bar and ordered single dishes (usually one, I have splurged for two).

What I love about this place (and this city in general) is the ability to roll in casual- No jackets, no "slacks", just bring a curiosity for food and wine (and yeah, some money).

Last night was pretty spectacular-  A compressed peach starter (raw peach slightly compressed in a bag with yuzu, served with yoghurt, daikon, and arugula) that was about as good as anything I've ever eaten.  Gently psychedelic mixes of sweet, tart, cool, pepper....  I would have left happy with just that.  Next, a bowl of fresh Matsutake mushrooms with Dashi broth and a cool glass of 07 Auxey Duresses (a white Burgundy / aka Chardonnay from right next to Meursault)

Surprisingly "new world"- The wine was bright, intensely fruity, and intense (but with little or no malolactic / butter and cream).  My brain struggled to see how this would pair with mushrooms in broth...  What the funk?  The high acidity in this particular wine shined with the almost briny broth, and seemed to pop open the thin almost sponge-like Matsutake slices.  The broth stank (like a good stank!) its way into the finish of the wine and just sat there for minutes... pretty unreal.  Though perhaps a little too pretty to be a total freak-show pairing, this had me speaking profanity in tongues to my invisible friends at the bar.  

To make the night even better-  At the bar, we ended up in a three way discussion  /debate on the ultimate wine pairing for Popeyes Spicy Fried Chicken.  I'm sticking with Loire Chenin Blanc.

In the end, all roads lead back to fried chicken...

"What Do You Really Know About the Dirty South?" Sippin', Snackin' with Good Friends

Broderick aka @savoryexposure and I held up the kitchen at Rowdy Food and wanted some of his famous TN redneck cuisine.

Perhaps the total standout--- Homemade duck breasola....  Mindbendingly good, and he swears, simple to make...  Still full of duck flavor (not just spices and salt).

I'm still learning my new camera, and I shot most of this on the "standard play" (low quality) setting.  Not bad, but I think I'm heading back to MXP (high quality) on my next shots.

(Huge props to Benito from the epic "Benito's Wine Reviews" for the tip on the track!)

Who Killed Chardonnay? You Did, You Did!

(Click on Image to go to Wine Chat TV's "Death of Chardonnay")

I've written several times about the ridiculousness of the "ABC" (anything but Chardonnay) movement.  Yes, there is a lot of awful Chard, stuff that bites the big one, but that isn't any different than Cab, Malbec, Savignon Blanc, my beloved Riesling, or anything else--  Not only that, but the ABC movement writes off some of the most amazing wines in the world--  Some of the most memorable and haunting wines I've ever had have been Chards--- from great, mature white Burgundies to the freakishly-fresh "wow" of the N.P.A.

Please check out the video at WineChat.TV --  For all you DOC's (defenders of Chardonnay), this one is for you.

Two Wines, 1 Fish-- Meursault, Mackerel, and Marne (biodynamic fizz)

 

 Shots and notes from a "quick snack" Chez Rowdy... (Photos courtesy of Rowdy Food)

Something like this Mackerel dish would take me 90min+ to cook (and most likely screw up)-- Rowdy, 10min, and it comes out perfect.  Two wines- 1 fish.

Françoise Bedel "Entre Ciel et Terre" N.V. Brut Champagne
Killer farmer fizz / grower Champagne-- $45-$60. (Biodynamic)
Apple, yeast, bold, and benefits big time from warming up and sitting out / opening up. Great as starter, but overpowered by the mackerel.  Insane as an after dinner sipper.  One of my favorite, character-filled,  non-vintage Champagnes at the moment.
(For more info on Bedel, check out Peter Liem's post on Besotted Ramblings)

Mackerel with Saffron from Babbo cookbook.  Cooked perfectly and accented incredibly by the simple red peppers.

2005 Olivier Leflaive Meursault
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault)  Approx $35-$45

Simple, and fairly quiet nose-  Lemon and rock.  Some depth, great acids, slightly rough finish.  Good, but not spectacular on its own...

But- this semi-lazy Meursault paired outstandingly with the Mackerel.  Not a pairing that pops and makes you go wow, one but that just feels right-  Texture, complimentary flavors, and more "ahhhh yeah" than manic curses of delight.  This wine was so much better with the fish than on its own.

Props to Rowdy for a crazy, late-night snack!

Atlanta Billard Burgundy Event: 6/22 Restaurant Eugene

Here is a cool event happening at Restaurant Eugene on Monday afternoon.  Not just a Burgundy tasting, but a panel discussion Billard's wines, with Laurence Jobard, Gil Kulers, Mireille Desmonet, Perrine Prieur, and and Steve Pignatiello.

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From Restaurant Eugene:

For 23 years, Laurence Jobard was the head wine-maker at the famed Joseph Drouhin estate in Burgundy, France. She is now retired and focuses all her attention on her family estate wines, in and around Pommard and Beaune.

Laurence is very well known internationally and consults all over the world. Her wines are superb and truly express the terroir of Burgundy. Restaurant Eugene will present Laurence's wines on an engaging platform, as we've organized a panel discussion of Burgundy experts to discuss Laurence's wines and the current state of Burgundy.

The panel will be moderated by wine writer, Gil Kulers and
feature Joel Brasserie Certified Sommelier, Native Burgundian Perrine Prieur, Laurence and her sister, Mireille Desmonet, who handles the administrative duties of the Domaine, and Steve Pignatiello, importer and well-known Burgundy wine authority.

Along with enjoying a complete selection of Domaine Gabriel Billard wines, we will offer charcuterie and other small bites presented by our chef, Linton Hopkins.

Seating is limited, so call now for reservations.
404-355-0321
$50 dollars per person
6/22 2PM-3:30PM
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America's Number One Wine Destination: Tampa FL????

(tuned in, turned on, and dropped out, wayyyyyy out!)

This past weekend I got together with family and friends to worship at the "Temple of Terroir" aka Bern's Steakhouse in Tampa Florida. 

As many wine lovers that I know, I'm always surprised at the numbers that have never heard of Bern's or who have never been.  In the words of a prominent wine critic-- Bern's is "America's number one wine destination". 

Let me say that again, and again  --

"America's number one wine destination"
"America's number one wine destination"
"America's number one wine destination"

(I'd change that a little and say Bern's is "America's #1 wine drinking destination")

If time and money are tight this summer and you can't make a trip to France, Spain, or out to wine country-  Make this your stop.  What you can experience here for the price is mindboggling.  Though you can spend thousands of dollars a head, you can also have mind-bending, pants-losing, experiences for under $50 a person.  Nowhere in the world, can you have these wine experiences for this price.

With approximately 1 million bottles of impeccably stored wine, there is something for everyone, at price ranges for everyone, and vintages for everyone.

The key is surrender.  Talk with one of their three sommeliers (all super-stars), and give them a budget, what you'd like to experience-- Then just clam up and listen.  Once they guide you- Ask them what you should order for dinner.  Toss out thoughts of ratings, vintage charts, or any critical yak-  There cellar is colder than most, and wine has a way of developing much differently there.

I won't post on specific bottles or pricing, but let me say that we enjoyed a run of bottles from 60's Hermitage, 70's Napa Cabs, 70's Bordeaux, and some Eastern European dessert wines older than Dick Cheney-  All at ridiculously reasonable prices.  Towards the end of our first night, I felt like Romulus drinking these wines as if they were coming directly from teet of the she-wolf, Lupa!!!!!

(Did I really just type that?)

In my budget, Bern's isn't about 61' Burgundy, 82 Bordeaux, or 100 point Napa Cabs-  It is about finding unknown gems that over-deliver for what I can afford.  Some of the greatest nights in my life have been in their bar with my family, eating steak sandwiches, with under $50 bottles of mature wines at their absolute peak.

Buy a ticket, pack up the car, hop a train, or catch a ride with the she-wolf....  Just go.

(Bern's sommelier, Eric Renaud, is a wine rock star)

Sometimes the Wine Finds You: Dirty Just Can't Hide His Gangstah Ways... (Now With More Hamster!)

Even when hanging low, seemingly away from the juice, sometimes it just comes knockin'.  While finishing up some work at el Octane last week, I bumped into fellow ATL Wine Blogger, Ryan Mullins 

As one of the ATL's wine-slingin' superstars  he opened up his goodie-bag and pulled out a few bottles to sample.  One bottle really struck me--  A 2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne Rouge.  But it didn't stand out for what it had, but more for what it didn't.

2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne
(France, Burgundy, Bourgogne) Pinot Noir variety.  Available in ATL at Murphy's or find it online at Snooth.

Bright cherry red.  A pretty nose of pure fruit, some light spice, touch of earth...  Medium bodied (Medium-), silky, tart, serious acidity, gentle tannins and a long tart cherry finish. Fresh.

Perhaps it sounds like nothing special (and a whole lot of cherry), but what I really liked was that it was restrained, elegant, feminine, balanced (and had just wee kiss o' the funk).  This isn't Pinot Noir trying to be Syrah, it is Pinot being what it is, a simple reflection of where it is from...Refreshing. 

Do you know what else is refreshing?

Peter Wasserman and Dirty Talk Grower Champagne, Farmer Fizz, and Chopped Meat

What is in your glass?  A style or a destination?  And does that destination have style?

In part III of our videos with Peter Wasserman, we discuss the basic differences between da' Big House styles and Grower Champagne.

In the next episodes, we get more in-depth with two producers from Champagne et Villages, pairing, and discuss my multiple run-ins with the law...

(Photos Courtesy of the King of Capture--  Broderick Smylie!)

Again-- Thanks to Woodfire Grill!

Brief Burgundy Basics with Peter Wasserman and Dirty

(photo courtesy of Broderick Smylie)

For the casual wine drinker the grape specific labeling of US, Australian, and South American wines (labeled Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, etc...) is easy to understand.  Pick your grape, a general place (Sonoma, Napa, etc) and perhaps a known producer.

Burgundy might appear a bit more confusing at first, but the basics are actually quite simple.

Peter Wasserman of Selection Becky Wasserman provides a quick overview for the Burgundy novice.

When Peter says it is all about geology-  you don't have to worry that you slept through every lecture of "Rocks for Jocks" sophomore year of college.  With Burgundy, the grapes are a given.  So the more specific the labeling on the bottle, the more definitive the place the grapes in that bottle were grown-- and the magic of Burgundy is in its place. 

When you found out you liked domestic Chardonnay, you probably went through a specific route-- Liking general CA Chardonnay, then zeroing in on a smaller region like Sonoma County (finding some producers you liked along the way), then focusing even more to say the Russian River Valley, then maybe down to a sub-region like Chalk Hill, and perhaps getting as specific as a particular vineyard.

Burgundy can be approached the same way.

In the upcoming videos with Peter Wasserman, we will discuss and taste Burgundy in greater detail, taste and discuss some amazing Grower Champagnes, talk viticulture and Biodynamics, and include some awesome wine and food pairings with our friends from Woodfire Grill.