On a recent visit to Toronto, I managed a visit to Ontario wine country to check out Kacaba Vineyards.
For those of you that are unfamiliar with wine production in Ontario, it is alive, and well.... well, growing. Follow the QEW from Hamilton to Niagara Falls, and you'll find nestled in between the elusive Tim Horton's and Swiss Chalets, the vast empire of the growing grape- The Niagara Peninsula. Production is fairly high, and across the board quality is really starting to rise- But like any region, you still have to search to find wines that are at both to your liking and your budget.
I'd hesitate to describe any of my Ontario wine experiences as torrid or sultry-- Though I would describe Ontario's best wines like watching an exotic dancer. Only Instead of watching her shake it to something like LL Cool J's "Headsprung" (click only if brave), she comes out and performs her routine to Jethro Tull's "Aqualung" (or this one). Definitely not what I was expecting, but still able to fully captivate and capture my warped fascination.
Ontario is known outside of Canada primarily for their icewine (Inniskilin is probably the most recognized). Though the most visible, I'm not convinced that icewine is the best representation of Ontario's wine. As a personal preference, many lack the acidity and backbone that I find in German Eiswien. I find their table wines of more interest. Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc) as well as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, and a number of hybrids are being grown with decent success. Though I find they seem to be doing the best with Chardonnay.
As a generalization, Ontario reds are known to be more vegetal than wines readily available on US shelves. Ripening can be an issue, and they don't really deliver the same fruit bomb style that US consumers strangely equate as the only sign of quality.
I think white wine is king in Ontario. Chardonnay, Riesling,, and Vidal (hybrid) are the most common, though I've tried a few others- like a loathsome Sauvignon Blanc with tons of residual sugar left on it.
Kacaba isn't a pull-up the buses mega-winery. It is small, quaint, and personal. Their production is rather small, but the focus is on quality. Their tasting bar is more like someone's kitchen vs. the big, pub-like, bars in other wineries.
Without going on about the small wonders of this joint, I say next time you are in ONT, check them out, you'll be surprised by what you find.
2002 Kacaba Cabernet Franc Reserve
(Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara Peninsula VQA) Approx $45 CAD
The Kacaba Cab Fran Reserve contained enough dirty, and enough veggies, to tell me it was from ONT, but also had a subtle streak of ripeness that helped ease it down the ol' gullet. In fact it was quite tasty. A touch of sour cherry, cigar box, a little pepper, full bodied, good acids, and a long finish with chewy tannins. This was rich without being obnoxious, full bodied without being concentrated, and had fruit with out being total Zarex. That gets 3 stars in my book!
At $45 CAD it wasn't cheap, but it was one of the best Ontario red wines I've ever had. I'll be pulling a few more over the border next time I'm up.
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And while we are talking about Ontario...
Sometimes I need a little Rush and their songs of triumph for my inner nerd...
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