Dirty South Wine

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B3: Beaujolais, Bacon, Bourgueil

The other night, I got together with Rowdy for a late night drink and think.

I broke my rule of "never bring one" (bottle), and like a total jackass, I brought a flawed Beaujolais Blanc with no back-up.  Instead we rummaged through Rowdy's stacks and picked these two.  An 07 Beaujolais (not Villages, not Cru, just straight up Boo-Juice) and a young 06 Bourgueil.

I drink a fair amount of Beaujolais, but always stick to crippy Cru-Boos in fear that the straight up B's are going to deliver nothing but thin candy, acid, and bitter tang...

Seeing this in the stacks, I saw it was a Kermit Lynch import and was curious to try it.

2007 Domaine Dupeuble Pere et Fils Beaujolais
(France, Burgundy, Beaujolias) Gamay variety. Bought in TN. $11-$14 online at Snooth
Light cherry colored, thin, but then a seriously majestic nose of rose, spice, and strawberry.  Light+ bodied, and a little cranberry, solid acids, low tannin, and a medium- acidic finish.

The nose is the show-stopper here.  Seriously beautiful without being a hodge-podge of laffy-taffy and circus peanuts.  The palate and finish is fairly simple, but this wine delivers serious pleasure for the price.  I would buy a bunch for everyday drinkers and almost like a good rosé, this would pair well with almost anything.

2006 Yannick Amirault Bourgueil Les Quartiers
(France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil) Cabernet Franc variety.  About $30.
Medium red, and a full nose of big pepper (green and black), big rock, not fully ripe berry, and herbs.  A super-tight, wide palate, that fills the mouth with good acidity and medium+ tannins.  Long tannic finish.

This will be a beautiful wine- I'd just give it another year or so before approaching my next one.  (or try a mega-decant).

Paired with these wines-- BACON Sandwiches!!  Crazy good stuff-  Bacon, kale, spinach, apple, sage, and a little Gruyere....  Man.  Perfect late night snack.

Blind Tasting: Character Shines and Spoofy Juice Gets The Hook

The East Lake Tasting Table recently got together for its  third round of blind tasting. 

Though a serious mix of professionals from the wine and restaurant industry, ol' Dirty sneaks in with a press pass.

The goal is simple-  Sharpen your skills.  Some are doing it for study, for work, and others just for the challenge.

Whether you are an occasional consumer or a serious collector, blind tasting exercises are a great way to develop your skills, knowledge, and most importantly to learn to appreciate what lies behind the label. 

In this round, we had eight Wines-  4 whites, 4 reds, all bagged and numbered.

As we worked through wines, what stood out to a lot of tasters-  the Spoof Juice.  The lab made, concentrated, heavily extracted, crazy oaked, high alcohol wines that were built purely for murder!  The wines came across as offensive to the senses-- power, but no redeeming character...  They stopped everyone in their tracks and elicited statements of WTF is that?!?!?!?!


Whites:

1.  2007 Burgans Albariño 
(Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas) Albariño variety
I thought it was CA Chard.  It seemed rich, heavy (someone mentioned residual sugar).  I should have gone back to this one, because it settled down, and showed some nice tree fruits.

2.  2007 Domaine Menard-Gaborit Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie Cuveé Prestige
(France Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine) Melon de Bourgogne variety
Crazy perfume-  floral, medium- bodied, crisp acidity.  Much more expressive than a typical Muscadet.  I happily nailed this one-  It helps that I brought it.

3.  2002 Domaine Guy Amiot et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines
(France, Burgundy,  Côte d Beaune Chassagne-Montrachet 1er CruPouilly-Fuissé) Chardonnay variety
Character.  Just a touch of smoke, distant lemon, and rock.  I pegged it as White Burg, but Puligny-Montrachet instead of the Chassagne...
4.  2006 Catherine et Pascal Rollet Pouilly-Fuissé Dom. de la Chapelle
(France, Burgundy Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé) Chardonnay variety
Ripe, far more tropical on the nose than most other PF's I've had before.  Lean PF structure-  I brought it and that helped a lot to nail it.

Reds:

1.  2002 Boekenhoutskloof Syrah
(South Africa, Coasta Region, Paarl, Franschhoek Valley) Syrah variety
1st glimpse-  Med. red w/ orange rim.  Looks like old Châteauneuf du Pape.    Nose of Syrah (meaty, dark berry) vs Grenache-  Thoughts of Côte Rôtie for a moment, but too heavy on the palate for the color.  I guessed 1999 Central Coast Syrah.  (I'll take the grape!)

2.  2003 J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Hilltop Vineyard
(USA, CA, Central Coast, Paso Robles)  Cabernet Sauvignon variety
Weird, stewy, almost animal (but not bretty)-  rich and heavy on the palate--  I guessed some freaker Mourvedre or spoofy Priorat. Shocker to see this as Cab Sav--- no clue how this can be...

3.  2003 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Cannubi
(Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo) Nebbiolo variety
Semi-floral, cherry nose that make me write Italy on my pad.  First thoughts are Nebbiolo or Dolcetto d'alba-- but then the palate.... MONSTER Tannins... ridiculously huge- Defying all laws of the universe... My thoughts of ITA go ou the door, and I just scribbled "weird-a**, Spanish sh**!

4. 1999 Château Léoville Poyferré
(France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien) Bordeaux Blend
Menthol, blackcurrant, a little pencil lead- but still some pure fruit.  Napa Cab hits my page in 2 seconds.  Color looks like around 1999....  Close.  This was a very pretty wine.  The fruit on it made me think older CA, but easily Wine of the Night! (Thanks Michael!!!!)

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Again, a fun excercise in humility, doubt, and intuition.

Huge thanks to Matt Olson from the finalanalysis blog and Cayce for hosting us, and feeding us once again!

And a final note from Matt---

Mid-90's Stone Cold Savennieres: Like a Freak Without Warning

There is something about the aging, speed freak, Karate choppin', Elvis-  It's the incredible energy combined with quick circular hand motions, an occasional kick, a bedazzled cape, and a runaway train of a band just burning down the track.  It gets you charged and riled up.  But now imagine something challenging, perhaps a little bizarre, and stankingly awesome (like Glen Velez and Lori Cotler) that transports your inner Cornholio to the same place.  This is Savennières.  The stony, freak show, of a delicious wine that unapologetically meets more foes than friends.

If you are unfamiliar with Savennières- Slate wrote a decent piece a while back.

1994, 1995, 1996

This past Sunday, in honor of a special guest coming down from Chi-Town, and as recovery for some who blew it out the previous night, we met at Big Toe's for some grilled sausage and wine w/ a mini-Savennières flight. 

(Though these are older bottles, current vintages of all of these wines are available- and the 2004 Clos du Papillon is the Dirty South Wine pick at Ansley Wine Merchants)

1994 Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines
(France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières Roche aux Moines) Chenin Blanc
Deep gold, the deepest of the three.  A tingling nose of wax, honey, and rock.  Medium bodied, and bone dry.  Feels like liquid porcelain.  Some nut and light dried fruit, heavy tingling minerals, and lingering stone and stomachy finish.

This needed time- about 90min or more to come alive, at first is almost smelled like stomach acid and gravel pit.  Sounds great, huh?  It was.  This is a wine that is alive, and in emotion (not in flavor) it reminds me of great, stop you in your tracks Champagne.

1995 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon
(France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières) Chenin Blanc
Medium straw colored, and touches of gold. A fat nose of dried pineapple, apricot, and smooth rock.  Almost spicy.  Medium bodied, baby butt smooth,with snappy acidity, and a long crisp finish.

So stony smooth.  This was the most balanced of the three (mixing rock and fruit).  Truly great stuff that is just smackin', and a bottomless pit of interesting character.  This is truth.

1996 Château d'Epiré Savennières Cuvée Spéciale
(France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières) Chenin Blanc. Kermit Lynch Import
Gold, with a tightly wound nose of intense honey, dried orange, and dried flowers.  Rich in body, but still so dry... My notes wandered from the page and all I can read is "Crazed Madness", "Uplifting", and "WTF Delicious!"

I think I like that one- a lot.  The d'Epiré was the most accessible out of the shoot.  It had huge concentration, nice balance, and delivered a little more pleasure at first.  I think the d'Epiré still has a long life ahead of it.

I can't declare any of these wines less than other-  All three were killer examples of what can be done with Savennières and show what all the fuss is about.  The levels of complexity here were staggering, and the flavor profiles completely mind-bending.  To top it off, you can probably find many of these wines on the open market for under $40.

These aren't popular wines for a reason- they run counter to almost everything else out there.  They have little fruit, are unrelenting, are not made for cocktail hour, and posses little glamor.  What they have instead is the ability to give you more depth and interest than any other wines at this price point.

This was a great day.

Dirty Wines from a Falcon's Party....

With high hopes for the Dirty Birds making it deep into the post-season, I had a potluck party for what was going to be the big game and decided to open a bunch of bottles (hopefully in victory!)  Among these bottles were a few importer samples that were sent before the holidays.  Possessing what sometimes must appear to be a jaded palate, I wanted my guests to taste these blind and get their opinions.

2008 Tamari Torrontés Rerserva *
(Argentina, Mendoza)  Approx Retail $13.99.  Unsure of ATL availability. Imported by Terlato Wines International

Pale, yellow.   A burst of concentrated orange blossom, as if it were growing through the roof of a West Bengal sweet shop.  Flowers, Citrus, Spice, Rose.  Medium bodied, a little viscous, more flowers, and apricot on the palate.  A touch of residual sugar, but not sweet.  Good food friendly acidity, a medium length, almost apple-cider like finish.

An easy crowd-pleaser.  After revealing the approx. price, thumbs up almost all around.  This Torrontés paired really well with some charcuterie that I picked up from Star P. 

-Other notes.  Heavier bodied than other Torrontés I've had. Only negative comment in the room was that the floral nose was too concentrated. 

Verdict-
Room & Me:  Pretty Dirty (most would buy)

2007 Tamari Malbec Reserva *
Argentina, Mendoza)  Approx Retail $13.99.  Unsure of ATL availability. Imported by Terlato Wines International

A purple wine with a cherry colored rim.  An intense nose of blackberry, plum, and a little vanilla.  Something about most Malbec always smells "Furry" to me- like the smell has its own texture.  Full bodied, with a velvety palate, medium sticky tannins, fairly acidic, and a long semi-chalky finish.

Most of the room approved.  This is a big, young wine. It is tightly wound- and it became more appreciated after being opened for an hour or so.  This isn't quite my style, but Smylie, a lover of Malbec and new world juice, gave a nod of approval.  Again, at about $14, it is priced well.

Verdict-
Room: Fairly Dirty. 

*Imorter Samples

2007 Nigl Güner Veltliner Piri
(Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal)  Approx. $35 Thierry Theise Selection  Available locally at Wine Gallery and Market.

Pale yellow.  Crisp pear, ROCK (like sniffin' on ol' Stone Mountain during the laser show!), cream- An amazing nose.  Fruit and steel on the palate.  Great acids, a long citrus finish.

Paired great with Rowdy's prosciutto with homeade apple/mustard marmalade, spinach leaf, with a touch of lemon vinaigrette.... YO!

Verdict-
DURRTY (not cheap, but excellent G_G_G_Grooooner!)

We had a few other bottles, and I probably don't have time to write everything up-

But a few other suggestions (without full notes)

2004 Domaine de La Cadette Bougogne Blanc
(France, Burgundy) Chardonnay.  Approximately $10 (not sure if this was a closeout) at Ansley Wine Merchants! Kermit Lynch Import
One of the best bottles of $10 white wine I've EVER had. Good, Cheap Burgundy! If you are a fanatic riding the ABC bus (Anything But Chardonnay) and you don't like this one...  I'll sick the dogs on you!

N.V. J. Lassalle Brut Chigny-les-Roses 1er Cru Champagne
(France, Champagne, Montagne des Reims)  Under $40 at Ansley Wine Merchants. Kermit Lynch Import
It is hard to find really good Champagne for under $40.  There is a lot of stuff that is drinkable, but this is goood. ELEGANT BALANCE!

(Don't let the name fool you- this is not a rosé Champagne)

Dirty South Wine- New Video: October FUNKS

Dirty South Wine October Funks!!!

3 Inexpensive Wines Perfect for Armageddon

"People drink when times are good.  People drink more when times are bad..."  

(But their average price per bottle probably drops.)

In preparation for a potential Economic Thermonuclear Armageddon, here are a 3 relative bargains to help wash down some economic fire & brimstone.

2006 Frédéric Giachino Vin de Savoie Abymes Tradition 

(France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Abymes)  Approx. $14 at Ansley Wine Merchants. Jacquère Variety

Good yellow color.  An initial aroma of pineapple, cold rocks, and light lemongrass.  Medium bodied- crazy acids, and a big, mineral laden finish (maybe a little bitter to some- worked great with roasted sweet potatoes).

Fairly simple, but tasty, and unique. At under $15 bottle, I'm going to crush a bunch of these hobo-style with a can of sardines.  I'm buying mo' fo' sho'!

2005 H. Brunier & Fils Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet en Provence 

(France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse)  Under $20 from Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant.  White Rhone Blend.

Closed for business at first.  Just some waxy fruit reminiscent of Nik-L-Nips.  On day 2-  Great white Rhone flavors- White flowers, pear and peach, some minerals.  Beautiful stuff.  Rich on the palate with good acidity, nice minerals, and a long, light mineral finish.

I need little more than this in a wine to be happy.  Complex, refreshing, delicious....   Money well spent.  Under $20, but drinks somewhat luxurious.

2006 Altesino Rosso di Altesino Toscana IGT 

(Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT)  Under $19 at Ansley Wine Merchants.

Purple.  Big fruit.  Cherry, leather-fruit (c'mon- work with me!), some hot tar, and giga-vanilla.  Lots of fruit and acid on the palate, and a bit of an earthy finish.  

On its own, this isn't my style, but with some of my Dirty Lamb Burgers-  this sucka' was tasty!

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Here's to Good times!!!!

 

A few from Kermit Lynch (and a visit to Ali Akbar College of Music)

Though I've spent a lot of time in the Bay Area, I oddly never made the trip to Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant in Berkeley.

For those unfamiliar with Kermit Lynch, he is a wine importer in Berkeley that specializes in importing "natural", unfiltered wine from all over France (especially lesser known regions).  An ex-hippie, musician, writer, retailer, and importer, Kermit has a cool gig.

I stepped into his retail shop, and let's just say it wasn't what I expected (though I'm not sure what I was expecting)---  Dead quiet. Silent. Noiseless....  No, it wasn't empty, it just felt more like a library or church.  Kermit's sales people were helpful, but distant- very distant.  When a question was asked, and answered, I felt like they hustled away- patiently waiting for another question, or just something to happen.  Professional, but just unsettling to someone used to the charms and chatter of the South.

I grabbed a few bottles, and opened them back in the ATL.

(Halloween is coming!)

2006 Clos Ste. Magdeleine Cassis 

(France, Provence, Cassis) White Blend (Marsanne? Ugni Blanc?) Approx $20.

Yellow.  Stankin' up the joint with minerals & melon, basil & anise- Flinty.

Medium bodied with tons of minerals, salt, and acidity on the palate.   Crazy tangy and a long rocky finish.  

Somewhat light and easy drinking, but this was a refreshing bottle.  (Day 2, this was far more expressive).  I like it.

2006 Chanrion Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la Voute des Crozes

(France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly) Gamay.  Approx. $20

Cherry colored.  A big aroma of hot dinner rolls, Super-Floral- like gawt-damnged tulips! (and roses), and a little red grape.

Medium bodied, some berry and earth on the palate.  Nice acidity, small gripping tannins (like being gently squeezed by hundreds of cupie doll hands!), dirty, slightly bitter finish.

This is pretty tight and simple upon opening (and still pretty young).  On day 2, this was open for business.

Though there are not a lot of sellers (and not a lot of buyers) of Cru Beaujolais in ATL, I still think it is one of the best deals out there, and this stuff is ridiculously food friendly. 

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After some time in Berkeley, I headed back to my old stomping ground in San Rafael to poke my head in at the Ali Akbar College of Music.  I got to reconnect with some old friends, sit through an advanced tabla class, pay my respects, and take a trip down memory lane.  

This is an amazing place.