Dirty South Wine

I Got Too Loose: Toulouse Vineyards Anderson Valley

Just after Thanksgiving, Broderick, Jenna, Lady Dirty and I headed up to Mendocino County to check out Anderson Valley.  I've enjoyed a ton of Anderson Valley wines, but had yet to make the drive up.

Anderson Valley is a totally different world-  Quiet, quirky, and seemingly in the middle of nowhere.  We made a few stops-  Breggo, Toulouse, Navarro, and Roederer.  The place that hit us over the head in both wine quality and hospitality-- Toulouse Vineyards.  A rustic tasting room / winery filled with dogs, happy, smiling people (employees and tasters), and the feeling that they were genuinely happy to have you. 

Their 06 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is my style o' juice-  Floral, feminine, acidic, with a touch o' funk.  Their Gewurztraminer is off-dry and tasty shizz.  I'm a fan of this place.

Wine, Collards, and a Whole 'Lotta Hog: Vision Cellars = The Mothership!

(Sat afternoon just down the road at Copain Winery)

Huge apologies for the lack of updates.  As most know, I moved out to Healdsburg, CA last week to work for Murphy-Goode Winery.  Yes- Dirty South Wine will still remain up and running (and hopefully runnin' hard!).  I just needed a few days to settle and get the ball rolling.

As opposed to a week in review (which would be way tooooo long), I'll just say- It was AWESOME.  Put what ever hyphenated cuss words of your choice infront of "awesome" and that sums it up. (extra points if one of the words is pig or crab)

As part of the whirlwind of my week, I was picked as a judge for Vision Cellars annual collard greens cook off.  Yes,  a collard greens cook off in Sonoma County.  This is a small chef and wine driven event that pulls some local superstars out of the woodwork.  This year's professional category featured greens from Chef Josh Silvers of Syrah Bistro , Chef Harold Rogers of the Red Rose Cafe, Chef John Franchetti from Rosso Pizzeria (formerly of Tra Vigne), and Kendall-Jackson Executive Chef Justin Wangler.

All were freakishly good.  For a bunch of hippies on the West Coast, these guys did alright with greens!  In the end, Chef Wangler took 1st place and Best in Show, but I give enormous props to Chef Harold Rogers for doing one of the hardest things in the kitchen- nailing simple. 

In the crowd, I bumped into former South City Kitchen Chef Dean Dupuis.  Dean know rocks chicken and ribs in Oakland at Pican. 

Describing this event is tough...  Down home, no frills, no pretense, good wine, good food, amazing people, and what fully feels like a family reunion (where you love all your relatives).

Mac at Vision Cellars is larger than life.  The event is open to Vision Wine Club Members-- Though Mac's wines are great, It is worth joining the club to go to this...

Huge thanks to Jeff Mall at Zin restaurant for not only getting me a slot as a judge, but for delivering the tastiest brisket I've ever experienced.

Video of the event is coming, but in the meantime, here is a slide show from the event.

Enjoying the Blur: A Burning Goose of Funky Juice

The Interim:  This week back in Atlanta has been 2 parts scrambling to tie up loose ends, and 1 part the bacchanalian equivalent of the human cannonball.

I've been extremely fortunate to get together with some great friends in Atlanta, open many ridiculous bottles, and wake up with cold sweats every other night.

 

Woodfire Grill

Chef Kevin Gillespie is on another planet-- Rockin; the pure Dirty South flavor.  7 of us camped out and were blown away by his cuisine.  (Catch ATL's Kevin, Eli, and Hector on Top Chef 6 starting on 8/19.)  Kevin, Bernard and Nick run a hell of a restaurant and this place is really like home.

With a ridiculous amount of bottles, I'm often amazed at how the seemingly simple bottles shine...  In a line up of all-stars, the 2006 Foillard Morgon "Cote de Py" (Cru Beaujolais aka Cru-Boo) delivered an anvil of justice (who doesn't need more anvils of justice???) when paired with Woodfire's pork rib.  The Foillard totally drives me wild. Floral, tart, acidic, and just sexy.

Chez Dirty: Pizza Pahty!

Delivery pizza and poppin' funky bottles.  Chadd dealing with an overdose of brett (this wine smelled like chicken poop).  A little can add a touch o' funk-- But a lot is like eating a plate of nachos on hot day at the petting zoo. 

Tasty "The Mother-Funky'" China!!!!!!

In what has become a staple of the Atlanta wine scene, Tasty China is the playground for juice greatness.  No corkage fee (but bring your stems and cork screws) and crazy Sichauan food... This is where weird bottles come to shine.  Late harvest Condrieu, 1975 Napa Riesling (???), and a bevy of light reds-- pairing insanely well with Sichuan Beef Tongue, pork belly, tofu, and whatever seemed to be dropped in front of us.

The world is spinning quickly-- Grab some bottles, a couple of friends, sit down for a meal, and be happy. 

(Photos courtesy of Rowdy Food)

"Where Have I Known You Before?" : Ampelos Cellars

About two weeks ago, I had the chance to taste through some of Ampelos Cellars wines with owner Peter Work and Andres Loaiza of Aria Restaurant.

Based in the Sta. Rita Hills, in northern Santa Barbara county.  Ampelos is smack dab in the midst of the Pinot Noir country made famous by, yes, do I need to mention it, "Sideways"...  But, hey, you now know where I'm talking about.

Note: Ampelos farms organically and is now awaiting certification. 

We tasted through a couple of bottles- Viognier, Rose, their estate Pinot Noir, and a "Syrache"-- Syrah, Grenache blend.  To me, the Viognier was a standout.

2008 Ampelos Cellars Viognier
(US, CA, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County)  Approx $25, 175 Cases made
No oak, no malolactic fermentation- Full bodied, lots of stone fruit, good acidity, and solid, solid, juice.  I usually don't get that jazzed up about US Viognier, but I really liked this one.  Bold, upfront, but not over the top or cloying. 

2006 Ampelos Cellars Pinot Noir Lambda
(US, CA, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills)  Approx $35.
Though an 06, smelling this, I was hit by an incredible richness-  Like most people's 07 level of concentration.  I had to double check the vintage...  The second whiff was an incredible familiarity-  Sea Smoke.  It had been awhile since I've had any Sea Smoke wines, but it triggered the Return to Forever / "Where Have I Known You Before?" thoughts.  Ampelos has a lot in common with Sea Smoke-- clones, barrels, yeast, and Peter's son Don, is now Sea Smoke's winemaker, and Kris Curran, Sea Smoke's past winemaker, is now helping with winemaking at Ampelos... (previously Don was head winemaker at Ampelos, and assistant winemaker at Sea Smoke)-- Got all that?

Tasty, big, complex, rich, Pinot Noir- extremely well made, crazy depth, and texture.  Bigger than my personal preference, but I shared the leftovers with Jimmy from Eat It, Atlanta and he really really liked it.  Wine Spectator dug it as well-- giving it a solid 92.

My thoughts-  The Viognier is great, and if you are a fan of Sea Smoke's style of Pinot, you will totally dig the Ampelos Lambda Pinot Noir (at a fraction of the price of Sea Smoke). 

Atlanta Billard Burgundy Event: 6/22 Restaurant Eugene

Here is a cool event happening at Restaurant Eugene on Monday afternoon.  Not just a Burgundy tasting, but a panel discussion Billard's wines, with Laurence Jobard, Gil Kulers, Mireille Desmonet, Perrine Prieur, and and Steve Pignatiello.

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From Restaurant Eugene:

For 23 years, Laurence Jobard was the head wine-maker at the famed Joseph Drouhin estate in Burgundy, France. She is now retired and focuses all her attention on her family estate wines, in and around Pommard and Beaune.

Laurence is very well known internationally and consults all over the world. Her wines are superb and truly express the terroir of Burgundy. Restaurant Eugene will present Laurence's wines on an engaging platform, as we've organized a panel discussion of Burgundy experts to discuss Laurence's wines and the current state of Burgundy.

The panel will be moderated by wine writer, Gil Kulers and
feature Joel Brasserie Certified Sommelier, Native Burgundian Perrine Prieur, Laurence and her sister, Mireille Desmonet, who handles the administrative duties of the Domaine, and Steve Pignatiello, importer and well-known Burgundy wine authority.

Along with enjoying a complete selection of Domaine Gabriel Billard wines, we will offer charcuterie and other small bites presented by our chef, Linton Hopkins.

Seating is limited, so call now for reservations.
404-355-0321
$50 dollars per person
6/22 2PM-3:30PM
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Winemaker Supernatural: Kevin Kelley Gets Down With Dirty

2007 Loring Pinot Noirs Have No Relationship with Mrs. Buttersworth

Most who know me, know that I struggle with a lot of CA Pinot.  There lots of producers delivering amazing juice, but many more producing industrial goop.  Thick, concentrated, syrupy, grenadine-like (Am I showing my bias???)...

I don't need Burgundy or something Burgundian in style, but I do seek for a feminine beauty with a dose of funk---  Think Raquel Welch in 1 Million Years BC... Feminine, Funky, Earthy, light and sexy...  Instead, most producers seem intent on 'roid-ing out their juice... Think the bulkiest, biggest, unnatural, female body-builder (screaming at the mirror--"Beefcake!!!!!").  That is a lot of what the market wants- A bulky pinot that goes with raw bear.  I just don't like it.

This week I tasted through about 25, high-end, 06 and 07, CA Pinot's and have seen stuff all over the map.

Brian Loring, of Loring Wine Company, was in Atlanta, and my friend John at Wine Gallery & Market, got a few of us together for a lunch and to taste some of his 2007's.

I had a few of Brian's wines in the past (04's I think) and I have to say, they weren't my style. 2007 is going to be a highly debated vintage (I hadn't liked much of what I've tasted-- Too much wine in too little space), and I was curious to see what he had done with his juice.

I was surprised.

I leave the short tasting notes for the end.  They are brief, and may make more sense to me.

Make no mistake, Brian's 2007 wines are new world wines.  They deliver lots of fruit, are not what I'd call subtle, but man.... I don't know how he does this.   They delivered new world fruit, but were still  light on the palate with healthy acidity-  It was a little shock & awe to me.

Brian's philosophy is to make his wines ready to go.  They may improve with age, but he wants them ready on arrival.  All of them are bottled in screw-cap, which his are supposedly breathable, but even he didn't seem 100% convinced on that.

There is a solid place in my heart for pop and pour juice.  Rarely, is it found delivering this level interest.  After this tasting, my faith was slightly in the 2007 vintage.

Brian's wines are brand new to Atlanta, and available at Wine Gallery & Market.  They aren't inexpensive, and are about $45-$50m but they are ready to drink.  (Though I'd still decant)

***In full disclosure-  Brian bought my sandwich for lunch.  You should've read my notes before that!  I had to change all my references to Mrs. Buttersworth, to light and lively  ; )
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2007 Loring Wine Company Keefer Ranch
(USA, CA, Sonoma, Green Valley)  Pinot Noir
Cool, pure fruit nose, light on the palate, great acids, low+ tannins, and a long, bright finish.  Some might say one-dimensional, I say clean and mean.  Perhaps the simplest of the wines, but probably my favorite. 

2007 Loring Wine Company Garys' Vineyard
(USA, CA, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands)  Pinot Noir
Far more complex on the nose, aromatically tightly-knit, carries the complexity to the palate, and still remains light and acidic.  Long finish. 

2007 Loring Wine Company Aubaine Vineyard
(USA, CA, Central Coast, Arroyo Grande Valley)  Pinot Noir
Deeper, darker fruit on the nose.  Rich, but not concentrated, huge perfume, medium body, killer acids, medium finish.  Good, but not favorite of all tasted.  I felt this one was near the line. 

2007 Loring Wine Company Rancho La Vina Vineyard
(USA, CA, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills)  Pinot Noir
Another bump up in richness, wound tight, fuller bodied, least acidic of all.  Decent, but not as distinct as the Keefer or Garys'.

2007 Loring Wine Company Clos Pepe Vineyard
(USA, CA, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills)  Pinot Noir
The prettiest nose of all the wines, crazy aromatics, complex and light on the palate, great acid, and long finish.  Tough call on this one.  Probably the popular choice for a favorite.

To me (and perhaps only to me), I really dug the purity, and almost the simplicity of the Keefer Ranch.  A cool, clean, blast of fruit, bright, alive on the palate, and just killer acids and finish.  A pure food wine.  The Garys' and Clos Pepe came in close and were far more complex (I think most people would prefer those).

Fomerly mailing list only, I'm glad to see Brian's 2007's in the market.

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VOTE

Emphatically ENDORSED BY VinTANK

Sometimes the Wine Finds You: Dirty Just Can't Hide His Gangstah Ways... (Now With More Hamster!)

Even when hanging low, seemingly away from the juice, sometimes it just comes knockin'.  While finishing up some work at el Octane last week, I bumped into fellow ATL Wine Blogger, Ryan Mullins 

As one of the ATL's wine-slingin' superstars  he opened up his goodie-bag and pulled out a few bottles to sample.  One bottle really struck me--  A 2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne Rouge.  But it didn't stand out for what it had, but more for what it didn't.

2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne
(France, Burgundy, Bourgogne) Pinot Noir variety.  Available in ATL at Murphy's or find it online at Snooth.

Bright cherry red.  A pretty nose of pure fruit, some light spice, touch of earth...  Medium bodied (Medium-), silky, tart, serious acidity, gentle tannins and a long tart cherry finish. Fresh.

Perhaps it sounds like nothing special (and a whole lot of cherry), but what I really liked was that it was restrained, elegant, feminine, balanced (and had just wee kiss o' the funk).  This isn't Pinot Noir trying to be Syrah, it is Pinot being what it is, a simple reflection of where it is from...Refreshing. 

Do you know what else is refreshing?

A Dirty Video Interview with Jeff Bundschu of Gundlach Bundschu

During Atlanta's HIGH Museum Wine Auction, a wild cast of characters from the wine world descended on the ATL for a celebration of Wine, Art, Food, and most importantly, to drop by Dirty South Wine HQ to get the pulse of the Dirty DIrty.

Jeff Bundschu, president of Sonoma's Gundlach Bundschu Winery, stopped in at Chez Dirty for a quick interview.

We talked about the Gundlach Bundschu estate, sustainability, big wines, and whatever else came to mind.

In the end, Jeff got so caught up in the moment, he donned the wresting mask and started tearing the joint up!!!!  (the power of the mask is strong!)

(Jeff letting the freak flag fly!)

Jeff's recollection of the interview is here--- on BlogSchu

Brief Burgundy Basics with Peter Wasserman and Dirty

(photo courtesy of Broderick Smylie)

For the casual wine drinker the grape specific labeling of US, Australian, and South American wines (labeled Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, etc...) is easy to understand.  Pick your grape, a general place (Sonoma, Napa, etc) and perhaps a known producer.

Burgundy might appear a bit more confusing at first, but the basics are actually quite simple.

Peter Wasserman of Selection Becky Wasserman provides a quick overview for the Burgundy novice.

When Peter says it is all about geology-  you don't have to worry that you slept through every lecture of "Rocks for Jocks" sophomore year of college.  With Burgundy, the grapes are a given.  So the more specific the labeling on the bottle, the more definitive the place the grapes in that bottle were grown-- and the magic of Burgundy is in its place. 

When you found out you liked domestic Chardonnay, you probably went through a specific route-- Liking general CA Chardonnay, then zeroing in on a smaller region like Sonoma County (finding some producers you liked along the way), then focusing even more to say the Russian River Valley, then maybe down to a sub-region like Chalk Hill, and perhaps getting as specific as a particular vineyard.

Burgundy can be approached the same way.

In the upcoming videos with Peter Wasserman, we will discuss and taste Burgundy in greater detail, taste and discuss some amazing Grower Champagnes, talk viticulture and Biodynamics, and include some awesome wine and food pairings with our friends from Woodfire Grill.