Dirty South Wine

Enjoying the Blur: A Burning Goose of Funky Juice

The Interim:  This week back in Atlanta has been 2 parts scrambling to tie up loose ends, and 1 part the bacchanalian equivalent of the human cannonball.

I've been extremely fortunate to get together with some great friends in Atlanta, open many ridiculous bottles, and wake up with cold sweats every other night.

 

Woodfire Grill

Chef Kevin Gillespie is on another planet-- Rockin; the pure Dirty South flavor.  7 of us camped out and were blown away by his cuisine.  (Catch ATL's Kevin, Eli, and Hector on Top Chef 6 starting on 8/19.)  Kevin, Bernard and Nick run a hell of a restaurant and this place is really like home.

With a ridiculous amount of bottles, I'm often amazed at how the seemingly simple bottles shine...  In a line up of all-stars, the 2006 Foillard Morgon "Cote de Py" (Cru Beaujolais aka Cru-Boo) delivered an anvil of justice (who doesn't need more anvils of justice???) when paired with Woodfire's pork rib.  The Foillard totally drives me wild. Floral, tart, acidic, and just sexy.

Chez Dirty: Pizza Pahty!

Delivery pizza and poppin' funky bottles.  Chadd dealing with an overdose of brett (this wine smelled like chicken poop).  A little can add a touch o' funk-- But a lot is like eating a plate of nachos on hot day at the petting zoo. 

Tasty "The Mother-Funky'" China!!!!!!

In what has become a staple of the Atlanta wine scene, Tasty China is the playground for juice greatness.  No corkage fee (but bring your stems and cork screws) and crazy Sichauan food... This is where weird bottles come to shine.  Late harvest Condrieu, 1975 Napa Riesling (???), and a bevy of light reds-- pairing insanely well with Sichuan Beef Tongue, pork belly, tofu, and whatever seemed to be dropped in front of us.

The world is spinning quickly-- Grab some bottles, a couple of friends, sit down for a meal, and be happy. 

(Photos courtesy of Rowdy Food)

Tablas Creek Dinner and Tasting: 3/25 ENO Atlanta

On 3/25, Jason Haas, from Tablas Creek, will be teaming up with ENO for what looks to be a killer dinner.

Tablas Creek wines are made from organically produced, Rhone varietals (Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, etc) from the heart of Paso Robles.  A partnership between the Perrins of Chateau Beaucastel and the Haas family from Vineyard Brands, they take a best of both world's approach to Rhone Ranger production in the Central Coast.  I have bought and enjoyed Tablas Creek's wines for years.

ENO-  When was the last time you ate at ENO?  Chef Eli Kirshtein is one of my FAVORITE Atlanta chefs.  He and his team are seriously kicking ass and have produced some of the best food I've had in Atlanta.  If you haven't been since Chef Eli came on board, GO!  Plus, they won Best Wine List in our Riding Dirty Challenge.
(Photo Courtesy of Broderick Smylie)

There are two events:

Tablas Creek Tasting:  6:30PM,  $20
Taste through all five of Tablas Creeks current releases in ENO's wine cellar. 

Tablas Creek Six Course Wine Dinner: 8:00PM ,$95
Six Courses, Six Wines.  Looks Great.

For reservations for the Tasting or the Dinner-  Call ENO at 404-228-8817

Syrah and the Leprechaun? More 12seconds of Wine

Syrah.  Yeah- it is gonna' git ya!
(original version here on 12seconds.tv)

Wine Deals at Woodfire, the WSJ, and a James Beard Nomination

Woodfire Grill in Atlanta has had a great week--  Coverage in the Wall Street Journal and a James Beard nomination for "Rising Star Chef of the Year" for their chef Kevin Gillespie.

I'm extremely happy for this team.  Nick, Bernard and Kevin are young, busting their backs, and completely going for it in the hardest possible times.

As an awesome restaurant promotion, they  run a "1/2 off wine" special every Thursday night.  This is on ALL wines, including wines by the glass!  For wine and food lovers-  this is a steal.

With my family in ATL for the weekend, we sat down for an amazing meal at Woodfire.  We chose Kevin's 5 course pairing and I can easily say that it was one of my top meals in Atlanta- EVER.  At some moments we all looked around and exclaimed perfection.  Momma Dirty and Poppa Dirty are tough to win over...  They were won over big time.

Nick selected two bottles for our meal-- 
2001 Helfrich Gewürztraminer  Steinklotz
(France, Alsace, Marlenheim, Alsace Grand Cru)

and

2006 Perrin & Fils Gigondas "La Gille"
(France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas)

Both paired really really well with our courses-

Scallop with Apple Bacon Compote, Striped Bass with Beets and Mushrooms


Duck and Sweet Potato Puree, and Pork Perfection.

The Gewurz with the Scallop was amazing.  Just a touch of residual sugar on the wine, great acidity, and a texture that truly complimented the perfectly cooked scallop.  Killer with the Striped Bass as well!  The key here-- restraint.  It isn't that Kevin is holding back (I think he's rocking!), but the food is not overdone, over-seasoned, and he knows when to get out of its way.  Nick's wine pairing worked the same way- complimentary, elegant, and nothing overpowering.

Then the jiggy-jiggy Gigondas-  Smokey, a touch of dust, and some light cherry.  Normally, I would have picked a Burgundy for the duck, but Nick was enthusiastic that this would work--  It was excellent. Like the scallop, perfect restraint-  The smoke and pepper, the acid and meat, the medium tannins working with the duck's fat.....  YO!!!!  Then the pork-  perfectly grilled, medium-rare, and also hearty enough to work with the Gigondas...

These guys are truly worthy of their press.  For locals, their Thursday deal is a no brainer and works in the bar as well.  We are really happy to see this crew kickin some serious a*#!

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For a closer look at Woodfire Grill, check out
their entry in the 2008 Riding Dirty Atlanta Wine Pairing Challenge
where they were awarded "Best Dish".

(Photo Courtesy of Smylie at Savory Exposure)

Master Po, Kung Fu, and Blind Tasting

Caine: (Master) You can not see.
Master Po:  You think I can not see?
Caine:  Of all things, to live in darkness must be worst.
Master Po:  Fear is the only darkness.

Blind tasting-- It injects FEAR into the hearts of many tasters.  Those that overcome their fear, must overcome DOUBT, and only those that truly overcome doubt can then face their skills (in el Thunderdome!)

On Tuesday night, the 2009 East Lake Tasting Table got together for their second session of blind tasting.  Formed and hosted by by the team of Matt Olson (from finalanalysis wine blog) and Cayce Callaway, the group is made up of a collection of many of Atlanta's top wine professionals.  (How I snuck in, I haven't a clue...)

(The Wines Unveiled)

The blind tasting is academic in approach-  some participants are practicing for wine exams, others to hone their skills, and everyone wanting to use their wits to try and best determine what is in each bag.

11 bottles were lined up and bagged--  5 White, 6 Red, and the group worked through all the bottles at their own pace.  About an hour later, the bags were unveiled.  There were some cries of victory, some disappointing groans, but everyone having a feeling that doing this is worthwhile activity for any wine professional or wine lover.

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The wines with some of my notes. 
(Disclaimer: My notes do not reflect the opinions or consensus of any other participants)

WHITES

1.  1992 Domaine Aux Moines Savennières
(France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières Roche aux Moines)  Chenin Blanc variety.
A huge, salty, shell-like nose that could only be Savennières.  The metallic yellow / orange says age.  I put in my vote as a 1997.  Killer-Killer Juice!  (Huge props to Vajra for bringing this!)

2.  2007 Araldica Piemontesi Gavi La Luciana
(Italy, Piedmont, Gavi) Cortese variety.
I picked up a ton of floral notes w/ some melon.  A little nutty, and my best guess was young Viognier.

3.  2004 Domaine Alain Patriarche Bourgogne Blanc La Monatine
(France, Burgundy, Côte d'Or, Meursault, La Monatine)  Chardonnay variety.
Burnt, scorched wood / match stick.  Screams 2004 White Burgundy.

4.  2006 Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne-Aligoté
(France, Burgundy) Aligoté variety.
Grassy nose, medium bodied, open & closed on the palate.  Aligoté.  I had the unfair advantage on this- I brought this one and was semi-familiar with it. (though someone also brought it to the previous meeting)

5.  2007  M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche
(France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)  Marsanne Variety.
Floral, rock, and peach.  Unfair advantage 2-  I brought this one too and pegged it.  For what it is worth, I LOVE this wine....

REDS

1.  2002 Château Léoville Poyferré
(France, Bordeaux, Medoc, St, Julien)  Red Bordeaux Blend.
Dried cherry, leather, , oak, and then some oak.  Juicy, mouthwatering acids, big tannins.  I thought a 2002 Sangiovese.

2.  2003 Salentein Reserve Malbec
(Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco)  Malbec Variety
I was convinced this was a new world, Paso robles Syrah from 05.  Deep purple, intense fruit, heavy on the palate....wrong. 

3.  2002 Château Angélus
(France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru) Red Bordeaux Blend
Cherry, Currants, graphite-  screams Bordeaux blend.  On the palate, more fruit than I expected from BDX, I threw my vote in for 2002 Napa Cab / Merlot blend.  Right grapes, right vintage, wrong place (Should have kept 1st guess).

4.  2007 Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Campo de Borja Tres Picos
(Spain, Aragón, Campo de Borja) Grenache Variety.
New world, 2006, central coast Pinot Noir- 100% certain! Cherry explosion, spice, tightly knit, extracted, Zin like Alc.  I even started listing vineyards...  Nope.  I even had this 2 weeks ago.

5.  2006 Foley Estates Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa
(USA, CA, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills)  Pinot Noir Variety.
2006 OR Pinot 75% sure.  Backup guess- Russian River Pinot Noir.  Medium Cherry, some earthy tones, low tannins... (In hindsight, this changed a lot, and became way fruitier, and CA as the night went on). Right vintage, right grape.

6. 2003 Storybook Mountain Vineyards Zinfandel Mayacamas Range
(USA, CA, Napa Valley)  Zinfandel Variety.
An initial nose of cold, canned vegetable soup, dried, candied orange rinds, and birthday cake.  97 Amarone or 2001(ish) Ripassa.  I was certain it was Italian and was made with raisinated fruit.  This was another wine that continually changed over the night.  The Veg. soup blowing off, and pure fruit starting to shine through.  This one was a trip.

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In the end, I find Blind Tasting is like golf.  It is always you against yourself (or against that know-it-all Master Po!)

This was an awesome event with a great crew of some of the Atlanta's most passionate wine professionals.  Huge thanks to Cayce and Matt for hosting the event!  Also-  Check out Matt's wine blog-- finalanalysis.  It is a cool view from inside the industry.

A $12 Viognier and Another Killer ATL Burger!

2007 Le Paradou Viognier Vin de Pays Blanc

(France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Luberon)  Viognier.  $12 at Barrelman.  Jon David Headrick Import

Rowdy emailed me from ENO's bar a few weeks back, saying he was sipping on a steal-  A direct, clean, Viognier for a screaming $12 (in their retail shop).  Curious about his enthusiasm, I walked over to Barrelman, grabbed a bottle of my own, and  opened it (and a couple other jugs) at Dynamic Dish for pizza night.

Yellow, slightly pale.  At first, the nose was closed for business- a little rock, a touch of dried fruit, and then nada.  About 20 minutes later (and a few degrees warmer), this nose came alive- Beautiful floral notes, more rock, some mixed fruit (peach? citrus?), medium bodied, slightly bitter,  (almost a little constricting), nice acids, and a medium long finish.  Solid juice!  For $12-- I dig it. 

Thanks to Cathy, Katie, and Jimmy for joining Lady Dirty and I.

Just after leaving Dynamic Dish, I got another text from Rowdy saying I needed to head to Repast to try their burger with some 99 Bourgogne.  Not that I needed any more food, but a declaration that it was perhaps the equal to another ATL burger had me intrigued...  That is one serious burger! Hats off to Joe!

Dirty South Wine- New Video: October FUNKS

Dirty South Wine October Funks!!!

Who Stole the Soul? Châteauneuf-du-Pape (and Soul Plane)

This past weekend, I convinced my self that a quiet night at home watching Soul Plane would be a great idea. In hindsight, funneling 2 Buck Chuck / Charles Shaw Shiraz while lighting my underpants on fire would have been a superior activity.  I have nothing else to say about it. 

And somehow this brings me to last weekend's Châteauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) Freak-A-Thon...

I like CDP-  Often it's gamey, herbal, and known to have a bit-o'-funk- It pairs well with lamb, pork, and all the dishes I don't crave in hot months.  And though 13 varieties can make up CDP- In the Southern Rhone, Grenache rules the roost.

Toulouse did another great job of hosting our group.  Serving a table of 9 BYO folks, providing stems, service, and spacing out food isn't an easy task and they always exceed expectations.  Plus- their food is affordable and I dig their art and space.

Twelve wines were assembled-  Nine CDP's from 1994-2004 and then three other wines (non CDP, but from similar varieties) thrown in the mix.  All wines were served blind and presented in three flights of four wines.  

I won't bore everyone with full notes of the twelve wines, but just some highlights and impressions

Flight I:

1994 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve

Light Crimson with an orange rim.  Holiday aromas of roasted turkey skin, cranberry sauce, earthy & herbal.  Gentle tannins, pleasant acidity, and a long, delicate finish.    A subtle wine.  Voted wine of the night (WOTN) by the crew. 

1998 Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas

Deep purple (looks really young).  Ripe juicy berry and a strong smell of mashed potato.  Tight, long finish.  This is little weird, a little rustic. (Non CDP)

1998 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée

Medium cherry color- initial aromas of diapers, petting zoo, and “old curry kitchen".  Alive and chewy on the palate.  And even though it has curry and diapers, I see "pretty" scribbled next to my notes...  Don't ask...  But brett aside, the palate on this was superb.  

1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

An aroma of primer, nail polish remover, and a huge bummer...  Flawed bottle.  

Flight II:

1996 Clos du Mont Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Deep and herbal-  Really Fresh.  Some cherry and leather, and just general balance.  Wine of the Flight (WOTF)

2001 Domaine Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée La Cote Ronde

Concentrated, thick nose of cherry and raspberry.  Tight, dark, and still showing potential.  Tasting more New-World vs Old.  Needs more time.

2001 Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon et Fils) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard

WTF?  Chalky, crappy nose, burning alcohol, really CA / Knotts berry farm on the palate-  POS (piece of sh*# is scribble on my notes)  Perhaps this was flawed, but I brought it and it was a major dissapointment.  ugh...

2004 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve

Dark, peppery, and some minerals.  Deep, dark, concentrated fruit-really young.    But again- really ripe.  Needs to be re-tasted in 5 or so years.

Flight III:

2003 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Dense, and wound up like an 8 year old on energy drinks. Showing traits of CDP, but just too much going on right now.  Needs a lot of time.

2004 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve

I can't type my notes on this one.  The best thing I wrote was "shi*@ty".  Another head scratcher.  Overly insane ripeness and could be from anywhere.

2005 Copain Les Copains James Berry Vineyard

Residual Sugar and mixed berry preserves.  Has to be CA.  Needs a long long time.  (Not as ripe and sugary as the 2004 I had a few weeks back)

2005 L'Aventure Côte-à-Côte

My notes only say- "Not CDP.  Needs time." (Voted Wine of the Flight by the group)

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A lot of wine, but nothing that really haunted me.  The 1994 Rayas was beautiful and delightful, but I probably won't wake up in the middle of the night calling its name.

What struck me was how un-CDP a lot of these young wines were.  Hot, ripe, fruity, concentrated.  As if someone stripped out their best characteristics and replaced them with what “people like” –- Sweet cherry and vanilla.  Many of these were super-star wines, rated insanely high by Robert Parker, Wine Spectator, and Stephen Tanzer. Sure, some need more cellar time, but I couldn’t see how they could get there. (Maybe I’m just missing something…) Not alone, many of us left the table scratching our heads with where some of these wines were going. 

Focused blind tastings like this are just such a great way to objectively taste and experience wine. There is no label bias, score, price or any of that to influence opinion-- Though not the best showing, this was still a great evening and educational.  

I'll take a couple of disappointing wines with great people over a magnum of Cristal and Soul Plane any day.  In fact, I'll take a couple of horrid wines, with disappointing people, and my u-trows on fire, over anything to do with Soul Plane...

Public Enemy:  Who Stole the Soul?

3 Inexpensive Wines Perfect for Armageddon

"People drink when times are good.  People drink more when times are bad..."  

(But their average price per bottle probably drops.)

In preparation for a potential Economic Thermonuclear Armageddon, here are a 3 relative bargains to help wash down some economic fire & brimstone.

2006 Frédéric Giachino Vin de Savoie Abymes Tradition 

(France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Abymes)  Approx. $14 at Ansley Wine Merchants. Jacquère Variety

Good yellow color.  An initial aroma of pineapple, cold rocks, and light lemongrass.  Medium bodied- crazy acids, and a big, mineral laden finish (maybe a little bitter to some- worked great with roasted sweet potatoes).

Fairly simple, but tasty, and unique. At under $15 bottle, I'm going to crush a bunch of these hobo-style with a can of sardines.  I'm buying mo' fo' sho'!

2005 H. Brunier & Fils Vin de Pays de Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet en Provence 

(France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse)  Under $20 from Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant.  White Rhone Blend.

Closed for business at first.  Just some waxy fruit reminiscent of Nik-L-Nips.  On day 2-  Great white Rhone flavors- White flowers, pear and peach, some minerals.  Beautiful stuff.  Rich on the palate with good acidity, nice minerals, and a long, light mineral finish.

I need little more than this in a wine to be happy.  Complex, refreshing, delicious....   Money well spent.  Under $20, but drinks somewhat luxurious.

2006 Altesino Rosso di Altesino Toscana IGT 

(Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT)  Under $19 at Ansley Wine Merchants.

Purple.  Big fruit.  Cherry, leather-fruit (c'mon- work with me!), some hot tar, and giga-vanilla.  Lots of fruit and acid on the palate, and a bit of an earthy finish.  

On its own, this isn't my style, but with some of my Dirty Lamb Burgers-  this sucka' was tasty!

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Here's to Good times!!!!

 

Dirty Birds w/ 12 Great Bottles

The past few weeks have been a little hectic.  I still need to finish typing up notes from "The Lunch Supreme" and have a whole slew of other bottles to write up too.

I wanted to get this one done before the rest-  A great friend, home cook, and dining enthusiast, opened his home to a number of juice-freaks and rocked out with a ridiculous multi-course meal.  Way above and beyond, this was one of the most fun meals I've had all year.  The pizza, hen, chickens, salad, and fried pizza dough doughnuts were killer.  The wines, were pretty good too.

2005 Bastianich Tocai Friulano Plus 

(Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia)

Nectarines, herbs, full bodied, viscous, slightly bitter on the finish.  

Very good, but for $50+, it needs a little more get up and go.  I kept smelling the wine and thinking it was too cold (and holding something back), but then I'd taste it, and it was at a perfect temp.  If this were $30, it would be a great bottle.  

2004 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc 

(USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles)

I've had this Rhone Ranger several times over the past year, and I like it.  It smells like white wash, slapping that shizz on a fence, and then getting kicked in the head and landing in flower bed (next to a couple of old apricots).  I like this stuff.  Medium bodied, medium finish, good juice.   This one is about $35, but their lower end Cotes Du Tabla Blanc is a great deal for under $20.

2001 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko 

(New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough)

Almost orange, feral, good dose of tiger-piss (not as much as the Scholium, but close).  Some burnt grapefruit too.  Medium bodied, decent acidity, medium finish.  Perhaps it would have shown better a few years back- but anything that is described as feral, wins some respect from me. (Fear the Te KOKO!)

2005 Chasseur Chardonnay Lorenzo 

(USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley)

Chasseur is becoming one of my favorite producers of CA Chardonnay.  This has a touch of butterscotch, a wafer thin dose of "electric-oak" (whatever that means), it is full bodied, with great acidity, but a little too heavy on the oak on the finish.  I think this could round out in a few years- It has the fruit, the acidity to age.

1998 Domaine de la Côte de l'Ange Châteauneuf-du-Pape 

(France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Good aromas of dried herbs, smoked chicken, medium bodied, dark cherry, killer velvety bod, and a nice slightly chewy finish. Nice Chateauneuf.

1998 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 

(France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie)

I smelled this and thought- blood of small game birds squeezed into my glass.  It smelled like the official beverage of Satanic offerings- and I loved it!  Along with journey into hell- it packed in some cherry and smokey flavors.  Medium bodied, silky, and a really nice dose of acid.  This wine was rocking.  Perfect, tiny, tannins

1999 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard 

(USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley)

I misplaced the notes on this juice.  I liked it, and remember some tight earthy flavors, still solid fruit, but I wanted to have more time for this to really open up.  I haven't been drinking a lot of young OR Pinot Noir that I like, but some of this 90's stuff turns me on.

2004 Walter Hansel Winery Pinot Noir The North Slope 

(USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley)

Another one without notes-  Young, big fruit- but starting to loosen up.  A touch of dirty on it, but has the power that begs for more air or more time.  I'd love to try this in a few years.

2007 Dry Stack Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Rosemary's Block Dry Stack Vineyard 

(USA, California, North Coast, Bennett Valley)

One of my favorite white wines of the year-   Another sick, freak of nature Sauvignon Blanc- this is as fruity and intoxicating as the Te Koko was feral.  (original write up here)

1997 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain 

(France, Alsace, Thann, Alsace Grand Cru AOC)

Endless gas. Wait that doesn't sound good.  Layers of cascading petrol-  lemon custard, and the Washington Monument.  Great Riesling.  Thick, rich, off-dry, acidic, and gone.

1999 Rene Leclerc Gevery-Ghambertin Combe aux Moines

(France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru)

I wrote magic on a piece of paper, and wasn't sure if I meant the wine, or that after all of the previous bottles, that I had seemingly obtained super-powers.  Light cherry colored, mushrooms, fresh raspberries, great earthy funk, delicate on the palate, balanced acids, resolved tannins, this is what I long for in Burgundy, and have yet to find in CA.  

1958 d'Oliviera Bual Madeira

(Portugal, Madeira)

Wow- This was special.  Thank you DC!

(photo to prove the presence of DA, "the mysterious one!")